Hello. Small problem with car. I know some one on here has had similar problem but can find topic. If i attempt to drive the car when cold, it either stalls or the revs drop when i come to stop[!]. Trying to turn the car over again when this has happened seems to take ages and sounds like its flooded the engine, (bit embarrassing when theres a cue of traffic behind you). If i let the car idle for five minutes it seems okay although occasionally will stall if i rev the car when its warmed up. Could this be the idle control valve? Is there any tests or checks i can do to prove or elimenate the valve. Thanks for any assisstance. Stuart.[]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Have you (or do you know how to) read the ECU ?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you haven , and you don then see here.... http://www.derekcarswell.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/pages/ecu.htm
Just done ecu check. The cel goes as so; - - - - - . . . - - - - - . . . - - - - - . . . - - . . . I presume the fault codes are 53 and 23. No idea what 53 is but twenty three is the air flow meter. About three week ago i removed my induction filter to clean it, the problem started then. Could i have damaged it or disturbed something. Thanks for your help. Stuart.
Not sure how long the error codes are stored for, so Id reset the ECU to clear them, then reproduce the fault and re-read and new error codes.
To reset the ecu is it the same black connectors used for diagnosing and the green connectors? Thanks. Stuart.
Cheers, just reset the ecu. The cel was flashing on/off at similar intervals. I presume it has cleared the faults and all i have to do is wait for the stalling to re-occur, then read the fault. Last year the car wouldn start, I traced the fault to a toggle switch wich the previous owner had put in series with the fuel pump. Removed the switch and shorted the wires. Maybe down to a loose connection where i jointed them. See how i go. Thanks for your help, Stuart.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stuart</i> <br />Last year the car wouldn start, I traced the fault to a toggle switch wich the previous owner had put in series with the fuel pump. Removed the switch and shorted the wires.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Thats probably where the code 53 came from.
Hi, back again. The car stalled twice last week from cold, put clutch in, pressed brake and it cut out. Did the ecu check last night and there wasn any fault codes. Please help, i was on the verge of trading it in for Evo 4 but just couldn do it. Cheers Stuart.[]
Carb or brake cleaner - anything that evaporates and doen leave a residue. Don forget to put the valve in a container and cover it as best you can, before you turn the ignition on, or youll be lucking for a spring & plunger for a few hours (or parting with £200 for a new one).
Am i being over cautious or does the intercooler have to come off? Thought there was only two bolts holding it on, but there seems to be another two underneath. Have to try again tomorrow. (got to go to work soon). I always thought the classic impreza was a GC8 code, whilst under the bonnet i noticed a tag stating GF8. Was this the revised model from 97. Thanks for your help, Stuart.