I am looking to have some work done on my car. The front O2 sensor is showing a fault code. HO2S Heater control circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) I believe this to be the front O2/Lambda sensor. I have an HKS panel filter and a H&S decat exhaust fitted already. (This wasn't the CEL cause) Now, I have also a Walboro fuel pump and a Decat up-pipe to fit. My questions are............. 1) If the Decat up-pipe is fitted and the car re-mapped, does the front O2 sensor get deleted/ignored as part of the remap? 2) Would fitting the Walboro affect anything before I get it mapped? I can manage that myself but the up-pipe is a bit advanced as knowing my luck it'd shear a bolt. It's a 2004 WRX, would I be better changing the Turbo/injectors/3 port boosst controller/anything else before a remap? (Parts prices/offers welcome) Not looking for big figures, just around 300/300 ish fast road car. Also, what price am I looking at for a remap, Oil change and Up-pipe fitting? Many thanks.
Someone will be along but I'm sure you need it mapped straght away if you de cat it ???? Tell me I'm correct ? As for the work - you will not go wrong with Andrew Carr - awesome mapper.
front sensor stays to monitor stuff, i fitted all my parts ie decat up pipe, sports cat and fuel pump, then drove off boost to my mapper of choice ANDREW CARR aslong as you drive off boost youll be fine
If you give Steve a ring on our workshop number which is 01995 605605 he can give you advice, work you out a rough price, and he can map it for you if you wanted. Cheers Tim
the lambda will need changing for a new one, its the EGT in the up pipe that gets deleted either with a resistor or in the ecu when maped, changing the fuel pump will not cause any issues
Ok, time to get this project rolling. Looking for a quote and timescale. I have another car so time frame isn't that tight when you get the car. I am open to the best option/route/plan, be is forge the current engine, rebuild the current engine, get a 2.5 lump in. Just looking for advice and help really. Car details 2004 Wrx Blobeye. Current mods Decat downpipe 2.5" centre pipe and ninja backbox. HKS Panel air filter Parts I have to fit Decat uppipe Walbro fuel pump Sti Intercooler pipework 3 Port boost solenoid Boost gauge Work to do I would like the parts above fitted, I would also like: 1. An oil and filter change, (Still to get these) 2. New Spark plugs fitted (Still to get these, wondering on the best ones to get) 3. Fuel filter changed (Still to get this) 4. Oil leak checked. 5. CEL light is on, P0031 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank:1 Sensor:1, which is the front O2 sensor (Need to get this, I believe ebay sell Denso ones, just need to clarify what part it is.) 6. Water coolant system check and silicon/samco hoses replaced if this is needed or fit an alloy rad if a good option for longivity. 7. Turbo hoses changed for silicone/samco if needed/advised. 8. New belt's if needed. It has had a cambelt change, but if the engine was getting rebuilt obviously make sense for a new one. Power steering belt slips a bit when cold, may just need adjusting or replace if worn. Aircon, not really fussed, I never use it. 9. Once all parts fitted and car healthy, A remap to make use of these mods. 10. An MOT. Decat friendly of course. I have a garage in Oldham that does it if that's not an option. 11. Gearbox and diff oils changed. My idea is to have a healthy reliable fast road car. I have looked at getting the engine forged and all sorts. 280-300 if possible, so as close to this with a healthy serviced engine. The car has done 82000. So where do I start?
You wont get 300 out of your current turbo. Assuming your still on stock TD04. 280 is mex realistically. Plugs PFR7b will do fine Newage rads are more than efficient enough. Alloy rads with just increase the weight of your car. I would stick with the oem boost hoses if they are not damaged or brittle. Turbo intake hose is not worth the hastle of changing. Its an inlet manifold off job and can cause you more problems when fitted (sucking shut on boost for eg) if you get a poor quality one. If your going to forge it then be prepared to spend on a six speed gearbox......no point forging unless your going for serious power. My advice would be get the car running nice at around 270-280 and sort the couple of issues you have mentioned. Then look at some handling mods and a decent brake setup. It will transform the car and will be more fun than straight line speed.
My personal opinion would be to sell it and buy an STI. What your missing on your cost chart / work to be done list is the fact that if you upgrade the engine on a WRX you'll also need to upgrade everything else (Suspension, Brakes etc) so in the long run your better starting with a standard STI that’s already at your target power. Depends what you want to do, but a WRX with a fortune spent on it to get to 300bhp is still a WRX that will need everything else upgrading, whereas starting with a STI gives you the stronger forged engine, stronger gearbox, better brakes, improved suspension as standard and would probably be cheaper (and easier) to insure than a highly modded WRX. Again, the above is what I'd recommend, however you may love your car so much you don't want to part with it, in which case your better breaking down the project into lumps. As an example - why service the engine now if you’re going to forge it /change it later? - Total waste of money. You need to decide what path your taking in advance - that way you can decide what’s needed and what you can avoid. Chris
Sound advice. I think I'll get the issues fixed and get the decat, sensor, service and oil leak sorted, then run it till I get an STI.
Cheers. Deep down I thought that would be the sensible route. I do love the obsidian black. But I'll just need to sort the issues and get it running right then save for my white sti. Is Neil@eclipse still going/on here?
ant edmundson just got 282bhp and 342lb/ft out of my wrx hawkeye, have a typhoon intake bailey dump valve and a complete exhaust inc headers and still got a sports cat
