<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by K555UFO</i> <br />Im doing some (mainfolds) next week,the wifes awayi will post picks up when i get done. I am using a drill rather than a drem. I ported my throttle bodies with a drill, although they were alloy. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> As promised pics of porting. Jim, you were right about hand drill but i was determined not to be proved wrong but gave up in the end and used my mates snap-on air grinder with a hi-speed cutter. I had them done in about 2 hours if that. Next question, i have not split them yet as im a tight yorkshireman and do not want to buy new gaskets. Do i need to split them to do a proper job? What about the up pipe does that need any work, most of the after market ones are 50 odd mm and to big i think.
Yep they will need splitting, it would made your life a lot easier being in three parts, youll need to smooth out the transition from left hand bank into link pipe, link pipe to right hand section, and if you e using an aftermarket uppipe then right hand section to uppipe and then finally uppipe to turbo that includes doing the exhaust housing inlet. Not bad for first attempt.
Cheers Jim not sure on uppipe yet i think harvey Smith does one but not sure on cost. When you say exhaust housing you mean the turbo exhaust housing right?
Good effort K555UFO!! Will let you see how Ive got on. Am planning w/e after next for first porting outing. Ive got some new questions for Jim please. 1.Whats the best tool for grinding off the heat shield bracketry? Angle grinder with suitable disc or ??? 2.Is it worth rigging up a temporary tent around the work area to minimize the grit and mess that might get thrown to the far corners of the garage and then require extra effort to clean up.. 3. To limit grinder maximum speed to non chattering level is the air supply throttled at the die grinder, or via the outlet regulator from the compressor reservoir. i.e. do I need to be looking for any specific control features in the die grinder or can I do max speed control on the compressor. cheers
1. 4 1/2" grinder with steel cutting disc to remove all the brackets roughly, then clean up with a steel grinding disc to give a smooth profile and make wrapping easier. 2. Don bother 3. All quality die grinders/air tools have speed adjustment on the tool. If its a new die grinder poor some oil into the air connection first, then connect air and run it tool free get the lube through all the moving parts, then adjust the speed till you feel happy with the way it cuts (when you done a few sets you get a very good feel for it), and wear a pair of gloves as air tools get very cold.
And goggles!i got bits in my eyes until i stopped and went to get some.(should know better as i have had grinding sparks removed at the doctors many times) And move the kettle i filled my mates with cuttings.
Already got the gloves n goggles just need the grinder and cutter! oh yeh and the spare set of headers!!
Neally ready to go then, i will post some pics once i have split and ported mine. Will be next week now i reckon as her in doors is back on Friday and there is little(read non) progress on the kitchen front.
finished porting at last this is a test for me using the photobucket thingy which seems not to have worked.. yet try again Well that's not what I expected but as the pictures are really rubbish anyway it'll do. The main thing is I've finally finished grinding and cleaning and I'm quite pleased with the result. inlets are better matched than the pixs show as the gasket is not correctly positioned for the photos. next job is wrapping em... it's a laugh init :roll:
Re: finished porting at last Looking good, was there much to do on the joints that you split? Who's up-pipe are you using?
Those don't look like OEM header gaskets to me, I have used similar looking gaskets in the past and they didn't last very long at all. Andrew...
I'm using a standard STI up-pipe (no cat) (and no EGT boss either as I have just realised.. now need to fit one one the down pipe as I want a handle on EGT bearing in mind my future fuel mods) Both the connector pipe and the up pipe are fabrications with a pipe welded to a flange either end. The pipe sits inside the flange and is welded externally to the the non mate side of the flange. I was unsure what to do with the bit of pipe that sits free inside the flange but decided to grind it away so that it stopped at the weld. There was a risk that I would either remove too much material internally with the dire consequence that the flange would drop off when subject to vibration and thermal loading, or that the taper would be too steep and I'd achieve no improvement. I hope I got it about right but to be honest I think you could pretty much leave the pipes as they are and just match the cast iron other side of each joint. By the way pipes are SS so are harder to grind. The whole job took me ages about an hour per flange side. I'd say the split joints were about 1/2 the total time. HTH All of the header set up is generously on loan on a return my old set basis from Mr Speedflash. Cheers Brian 8) 8) Andrew.. the gaskets Ive got have come packaged in a sealed bag with a fairly pukka SUBARU genuine parts label.... they've been sourced from an ex franchised dealer nearby... If there not OEM I'll be truely p*ssed Off!! :?
So i supose the only way to check is take them to a main dealer? Do you really think theres a risk with fitting the one's I've got :?: :?:
Are the gaskets you have laminated steel, or look like a foil coating, standard subaru gaskets are laminated steel (four layers with an extra ring around the opening). The gaskets you've got look very similar to the type that come with aftermarket headers, and these blow quite readily due to the design of them.
foil coated Is it possible that the OEM standard has changed my part No is 44022AA020. datea stamp 05/05 also called GASKET F.
can't see them changing something after 15 years or more, think you may have been given the wrong parts, or they're snide copies. I'm off up to wildings on monday so I can ask whether they've changed them, but can't see it. Foil coated gaskets blow way too easy. If the old ones aren't too bad, and considering the age of your car just reuse the originals.
Thanks guys. I phoned Wildings (no relation to me unfortunately) on Friday and they had non in stock!!
